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Cotone Perlè DMC n 8 gomitolo 10g
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QUICK SHEET: DMC Perlè No. 8 ball (Art. 116) in 100% cotton, twisted and mercerized, a non-divisible high-definition thread for embroidery and crochet.
Weight: 10 grams | Length: approx. 80 meters | Composition: 100% Cotton | Recommended crochet hook: 1.25–1.50 | Recommended needle: Tapestry 22–24 / Embroidery 5–7 | Washing: up to 60°C (colors), up to 95°C (whites).
DMC Pearl Cotton No. 8 – The technical thread for embroidery and crochet
DMC Pearl Cotton No. 8 is one of those threads you can’t “sum up” in two lines: you understand it when you work with it. It’s a twisted, round, non-divisible thread designed to deliver stitch clarity, readability, and durability. Size No. 8 is the most balanced choice if you want a visible yet refined line: it bridges the gap between a fuller No. 5 and a more delicate No. 12, making it ideal for both structured embroidery and crochet lace and edgings.
Why it’s a “technical classic” (not just a simple cotton thread)
The difference with Pearl Cotton No. 8 lies in its construction: it isn’t a “soft, flat” cotton, but a thread that holds its shape. That’s why it’s especially loved when you want a neat, readable result: from counted-thread embroidery to fine crochet details, where thread regularity translates into cleaner work.
- Embroidery: chain stitch, stem stitch, raised outlines, Hardanger, and structured details.
- Crochet: edgings on linens, visible lace, small accessories, and crisp micro-work.
- Tatting: smooth knots and highly readable designs, helpful even for beginners.
- Big Stitch Quilting: bold decorative stitching that’s strong and even.
TECHNICAL ANALYSIS: What are you really buying?
With cotton threads, quality isn’t measured only by how it feels in your hand, but by how the thread was built and finished. Pearl Cotton No. 8 is a stable industrial product designed to deliver consistent performance: smooth flow, definition, strength, and color performance.
1. Raw material & spinning: the difference long-staple fiber makes
Longer fibers reduce surface fuzz and the number of micro-discontinuities along the length of the thread. Result for you: crisper stitches (especially in embroidery) and less visual “noise” on lace, edgings, and details.
2. Twist & structure: why Pearl Cotton stays round and defined
Pearl Cotton is a twisted, non-divisible thread: it’s not meant to be separated like stranded floss. The twist is part of its look—stitches stay round, don’t flatten out, and don’t “split” easily.
Result for you: clean lines, well-drawn outlines, and a slightly three-dimensional effect on fabric.
3. Mercerization: shine, color, and stability
Mercerization is a tension treatment that makes the fiber more uniform and more receptive to dye. Result for you:
- More sheen (an even, “clean” reflection).
- Richer colors and generally better wash stability.
- Better strength while working (less wear from repeated passes).
- Less shrinkage than untreated cotton, under the same washing conditions.
4. Knots management: an honesty pact
In any industrial production there can be technical knots (joins between cones). “Zero knots” can’t be guaranteed. In good-quality Pearl Cotton the frequency is usually low, but it can happen.
Expert tip: if you find a knot in a visible area, don’t stitch over it—cut and redo a clean join, securing the tails on the back. In embroidery and lace, a neat join is what makes the work look “professional.”
5. Dye lots, colorfastness & natural initial bleeding
Cotton is a natural fiber: small differences between dye lots are possible. For large projects, it’s best to buy everything at once. With highly saturated colors (deep reds, dark blues, blacks), you may see minimal initial bleeding on the first wash—this can be a normal behavior of excess pigment.
Best practice: for high-contrast work (e.g., dark on white), use a color catcher sheet on the first wash and wash in cool water or up to 30°C for the first cycles.
6. Pilling & long-term behavior
Pilling forms when short fibers work their way out of the twist and clump due to friction. The combination of twist and finishing makes Pearl Cotton low-pilling.
Result for you: embroidery that stays clean and an edging that keeps its definition even after wear and washing.
Practical tips: how to get the best results
1) Choosing the hook: more “hand feel” = more performance
Size 1.25–1.50 is a solid reference, but personal tension matters a lot. For stiff, compact work (jewelry, micro-amigurumi) you can go down toward 1.00–1.10. For standard edgings and lace stay between 1.25 and 1.50. If you have a very tight tension or want more softness, you can go up to 1.65–1.75.
2) Preventing kinking (over-twisting)
With highly twisted threads, it’s normal for twist to build up while you work. Simple method: every 10–15 minutes, let the project hang while holding the thread—excess twist releases naturally and the thread returns to a “relaxed” state.
3) The right needles: the eye must be sized correctly
A needle eye that’s too small increases friction, can dull the sheen, and stresses the twist. On open-weave fabrics (Hardanger/Aida) use Tapestry 22–24; on dense fabrics choose Embroidery 5–7 needles or Chenille needles with a large eye.
4) Clean joins: the detail that changes everything
If you need to change thread or color, avoid visible knots. It’s better to secure the tails neatly on the back: the work stays clean and avoids stiff spots or odd bulk.
Care: keep shine and relief over time
Mercerized Pearl Cotton handles washing well, but best results last longer with good habits:
- Washing: colors up to 60°C, whites up to 95°C when needed; for intense colors, prefer gentle cycles at first.
- Detergents: avoid bleach/whiteners on colors; choose neutral detergents.
- Drying: for delicate lace and embroidery, dry flat and avoid aggressive twisting.
- Ironing: iron on the wrong side over a soft base (towel) to avoid crushing raised stitches.
- Storage: protect from prolonged direct light, especially for dark or very bright colors.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
• What’s the difference between Pearl Cotton No. 5, No. 8 and No. 12?
The numbering is reversed: the higher the number, the thinner the thread. No. 5 is thicker (more relief), No. 12 is very fine (tiny details), and No. 8 is the most versatile middle ground for embroidery and crochet.
• Is Pearl Cotton No. 8 divisible like stranded floss (Mouliné)?
No. It’s a non-divisible thread. Its look depends on the intact twist: splitting it weakens the thread and ruins its roundness and definition.
• What crochet hook should I use with Pearl Cotton No. 8?
On average 1.25–1.50. For jewelry or very compact micro-work, go down to 1.00–1.10. If you want a softer stitch or have tight tension, you can go up to 1.65–1.75.
• Can it bleed on the first wash?
With very intense colors, slight initial bleeding is possible (normal). On light backgrounds, it’s wise to use a color catcher sheet and wash at low temperature for the first cycles.
• How should I handle knots in the ball?
If you find a knot in a visible area, avoid stitching over it. Cut and redo a neat join on the back: it’s the cleanest and most durable solution.
• Which needle is best for embroidering with Pearl Cotton No. 8?
On open-weave fabrics (Hardanger/Aida) use a Tapestry 22–24 (blunt). On dense fabrics choose Embroidery 5–7 needles or Chenille needles with a large eye, so the thread glides without stress.
• Is it suitable for tatting and textile jewelry?
Yes. The mercerized surface helps knots slide and the twist gives a bold, highly readable line. It’s also a great choice for beginners who want to clearly see the lace structure.
• How many balls do I need for an average project?
One ball contains about 80 meters. For edgings and small accessories, 1 ball is often enough; for larger projects, estimate with a swatch and buy 10–20% extra, preferably from the same dye lot.
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